Once Taboo, More Japanese Women Are Brewing Sake

In Okaya, Japan, as the sun just begins to rise, Mie Takahashi, a Japanese sake brewer, carefully examines the temperature of the fermenting mixture at her family's sake brewery, Koten. This brewery has been in her family for 150 years and is located in the picturesque foothills of the Japanese Alps.

Takahashi stands on a narrow, uneven wooden platform above a large tank that holds over 3,000 liters (or 800 gallons) of a bubbling mixture that consists of steamed rice, water, and koji, a rice mold essential for the fermentation process. Armed with a long paddle, she stirs the mixture thoroughly.

"The morning hours are crucial in sake making," says Takahashi, who is 43 years old. Nagano prefecture, where her brewery is situated, is famous for its sake production.

Mie Takahashi represents a small but growing group of female toji, or master sake brewers. There are currently only 33 female toji registered in Japan's Toji Guild Association, a stark contrast to the over a thousand breweries across the country.

This number has increased compared to decades past when women were largely excluded from sake brewing, a tradition with roots stretching back more than a millennium, intertwined with Japan’s Shinto religious practices.

During the Edo period, from 1603 to 1868, an unwritten rule kept women out of breweries. The reasons for this exclusion are not entirely clear, but one theory suggests that women were deemed impure due to menstruation, thus barred from sacred spaces. Another theory explains that as sake production transitioned to mass manufacturing, the work became associated with heavy physical labor and was deemed unsuitable for women.

However, changing social norms, alongside a declining workforce due to Japan’s aging population, are gradually opening doors for women in this industry. "It is still primarily a male-dominated field, but now the emphasis is on passion for the craft rather than gender," Takahashi observed.

Advancements in machinery are also helping to close the gender gap in sake brewing. In the Koten brewery, for example, a crane now lifts large batches of steamed rice and places them onto a conveyor belt, reducing the need for manual labor. This transition allows women and others to engage more easily in the brewing process.

Sake, referred to as nihonshu in Japan, is crafted by fermenting steamed rice with koji, which converts the starches in the rice to sugars. Recently, UNESCO recognized this ancient brewing skill as part of its Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Takahashi’s journey to becoming a brewer was far from conventional. She recalls visiting her family's brewery for the first time at the age of 15. Intrigued by the bubbling fermentation process, she was fascinated by the invisible microorganisms that helped create sake. "It was amazing to see that something so fragrant could be made from just rice and water," she remarked, sparking her desire to brew sake.

She later pursued a degree in fermentation science at the Tokyo University of Agriculture. After finishing her studies, she returned to the family business, committing a decade to training under her predecessor before ultimately assuming the role of toji at the age of 34.

Now, as the brewery enters its busiest season during winter, Takahashi manages a team of seasonal workers, overseeing a demanding production schedule. This involves lifting substantial quantities of steamed rice and mixing thousands of liters of sake. The role of a master brewer requires extensive knowledge to ensure optimal growth of koji mold, which demands continuous monitoring and attention.

Despite the high demands of her position, Takahashi prioritizes teamwork and camaraderie. She routinely collaborates with her team, mixing koji rice together in the humid brewing room. "I learned that fostering good relations within the team is vital," she concluded. "If the atmosphere is tense at the brewery, the sake can turn out harsh, while a pleasant environment fosters smoother sake."

Women like Takahashi are critical to the future of the Japanese sake industry, which has been experiencing a steady decline since its peak in the 1970s. With the drop in domestic alcohol consumption and challenges in finding new master brewers, many smaller breweries are struggling to survive. According to the Japan Sake and Shochu Makers Association, current sake production volumes are only about 25% of what they were half a century ago.

To remain relevant, breweries like Koten are exploring new markets at home and abroad. "Our primary product has always been dry sake, which is still favored by locals," shared Takahashi's brother, Isao Takahashi, who oversees the business side. "We are now looking into creating premium sake as well."

Isao supports his sister’s creative endeavors, encouraging her to experiment. Each year, she develops a limited-edition sake series named Mie Special, which aims to diversify their offerings beyond the standard dry product. "My sister is always eager to try making low-alcohol sake or explore new yeasts—she brings with her a wave of innovation," he expressed. "I want to support my sister's vision while striving to market her creations effectively."

sake, women, brewing